Zivaz Mexican Bistro
Once again, a family enterprise sets a new benchmark for local
cuisine. The Valenzuelas, Don Felipe and Cecilia with sons Joaquin
and Felipe, opened Zivaz (a name coined to suggest zestful living)
in November of 2005. Their recipe for success includes---in addition
to savory original dishes and efficient service---Don Felipe's
experience as a food commodities broker, son Felipe's degrees from
the UA in finance and entrepreneurship, Joaquin's studies towards
his business degree, and Cecilia's tireless oversight.
Michael, Mary
and I gathered for dinner and were surprised to find the place
well-filled by 6:30---on a Tuesday in midsummer.
The décor is functionally trendy with faux marble tables
and contemporary, natural wood chairs. You order and pay as you
enter, stop at the fountain station on your way to a table of your
choice, and nibble chips and salsa till your server brings your
food.
A handful of
appetizer selections range from $5-$10. Particularly notable
is the Mushrooms al Ajillo, sautéed in white wine
and garlic with a hefty dose of dry chiles. "Caliente!" as
Michael exclaimed...the chiles somewhat engulfing the other flavors.
Moving onto the ensaladas y sopas ($5-$10 for entrée version
of salad), we shared Sopa Tlalpeno - a well-balanced blend of savory
broth with garbanzo beans, avocados, chipotle chiles and chicken
chunks. Nicely flavorful and satisfying as a light course.
We opted to
forego sharing a salad since one comes with each entrée,
as do beans and rice. But we did note that Zivaz serves a nice
blend of field greens rather than the green leaf or common iceberg
varieties.
Entrées range from $7-$13…decisions,
decisions. We settled on samples of six: Carne Asada ($12), Pechuga
en Mole (chicken,
$10), Carnitas (pork, $9), Milanesa de Berenjena (slightly breaded
eggplant with panela cheese and roasted tomatillo-avocado salsa,
$9), and Seafood and Veggie Enchiladas Pipian (with pumpkin seed
herbs, and panela cheese - $10 and $8, respectively).
The
eggplant dish and the enchiladas were truly outstanding. The
seafood enchiladas is possibly the
best Mexican dish I have tasted - generously filled with mahi
mahi and coated in a delicious, slightly
sweet sauce that complements rather than drowns the filling. The
dish is light on the stomach yet completely satisfying in flavors,
textures and balance of sauce to enchilada, as is the cheese version.
Note: Choice of four enchilada sauces - pipian, poblana chile,
mole, and the traditional red or green casera.
Likewise, the eggplant was a wonderful Mexican version of the
Italian parmesan dish, though lighter and with a greater variety
of flavors. To complete the distinction, special seasonings elevate
Zivaz' refried black beans and savory rice above the expected.
The carnitas was very tender and flavorful in its own juices --
very popular with patrons. Mole, I believe, is an acquired taste
that I have not yet mastered, so I would defer to the judgment
of aficionados. We can say that Zivaz' is well-prepared with a
subtle twist in the spices and that it is ordered frequently, as
we observed.
Just one dessert
on the menu - flan for $4. Cut cheesecake style and served with
orange zest slivers and syrup and mint leaves…fine
texture and flavors at a very modest price. It would have been
nice to have some selection in sweet endings, however.
Lunchtime bargain
till 3 p.m.: Enjoy smaller (though still ample) portions of Zivaz'
signature entrées -- again with rice,
beans and salad -- for just $7.44. I recommend splitting two or
three dishes among friends; it's just too hard to narrow it down
to one.
To sum it up ~ Zivaz outshines its competition mainly in innovative
recipes that reach into the gourmet category, and it's prices are
downright modest. It's my first choice for a healthy lunch when
constraints of time and budget apply. Great for a distinctive and
delicious dinner, too, if you're not set on romantic environs:
Broadway is just a few yards from the windows.
When
you go ~ Zivaz Mexican Bistro (325-1234) is located at 4590
E. Broadway, just west of Swan. Open daily 11 a.m. - 9 p.m. Accepts
cash and major credit cards but no checks. Does not accept reservations
but takes advance calls for large tables.
If you know
of a restaurant that you would like to recommend to others, and
you think it has widespread appeal, please email it’s
name and location to: spoonsup@goodnewstucson.com
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